Japan and China are targeting the Philippines as a new source for their beloved but rapidly disappearing eels, according to an investigation by TRAFFIC, the wildlife trade network, and the Zoological Society of London.

Eels are big business in China and Japan, where they are eaten as part of traditional Asian medicine or as the delicacies known as unagi and kabayaki. The voracious appetite for eels—30,000 tons are consumed every year in Japan alone — has already put multiple species at risk. Last year Japan declared the Japanese eel endangered, a move followed this spring by the International Union for Conservation of Nature. That follows the 2010 declaration of the European eel as critically endangered because of overharvesting for the Japanese market.

The Philippines recognized in 2012 that its five species of native eels were probably next. Trade in Philippine eels was almost nonexistent before 2007. Minor levels of trade took place for the next few years, followed by an explosion of both exports and prices in 2011 and 2012. After that, the country put in place a rule that said only juvenile eels larger than 15 centimeters could be exported. The TRAFFIC investigation, however, found that eels of all sizes are being caught and exported and that the trade has continued to increase.

The escalating trade, especially in juvenile eels, could be "seriously detrimental to these species," said Vicki Crook, program officer with TRAFFIC and the author of the report. Of particular concern is a species called the Philippine mottled eel, which was only scientifically described five years ago and has a limited range around Luzon Island—which is also the heart of the Philippine eel trade.

Fishers target eels in two early stages of their life cycle, when they are known as glass eels or elvers. At this point they are just a few centimeters long and mostly transparent. Eels at this stage are caught by the thousands and then shipped to China, where they are grown in massive vats until they are large enough to eat. Captive breeding of eels on a wide scale has never been successful.

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