“Slow down!” The motorcycle bounces as we accelerate over aged cement, veined and grouchy.

El Nido’s Roller-coaster road is not kind; it twists unexpectedly, careens round, juts out towards the archipelago and then pulls back into the land. Stones and broken glass, sunburnt cement downtrodden by thousands of vehicles and horses and people, all fly up like fire crackers and snap at our bare legs.
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