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Englishman2010
16th January 2012, 22:53
Vietnam part 2 – Over night sleeper trains
After 3 nights and days in the Saigon area it was time to head north on the overnight sleeper train to Da Nang on what's known as The Reunification Express. The train was due to leave at 11.00 PM so we spent the day in Vung Tao, a beach resort about an hour south of Saigon. On the way back to Saigon, I was overcome with “Saigon Belly”, the meal I ate in a rather dodgy Vung Tao cafe earlier had come back to haunt me. Stocked up with Imodium we headed off to catch the train.
The AC sleeper compartment had 4 beds in it and was comfortable enough for an over night journey. Clean sheets and bedding were provided and the bed had a soft mattress. The carriages had seen better days, but were a lot better than I had been preparing myself for as I have experienced sleeper trains on my travels around India. Each carriage had a washroom and toilet, with a fairly clean western style toilet, which proved to be a bonus given my stomach affliction.
The journey to Da Nang took about 16 hours, the views were pleasant enough, mainly looking out on rice and vegetable fields and distant mountains, but they become a bit monotonous after 16 hours.
The train made about half a dozen stops along the way. During one of the stops I got off the train to buy some breakfast from one of the dozens of women on the platform selling a variety of snacks and drinks. I gestured and pointed to the vendor that I wanted 2 X 1.5 litre bottles of water, 2 hard boiled eggs and a tray of boiled rice with a fried chicken leg. I’d made the mistake of having a 100,000 Dong note in my hand (about £3.20), so when I asked her how much, naturally she said 100,000. I laughed and said I wasn’t paying that much. I told her 50,000 was about right and gave her a 50,000 note. She took the 50,000 note and laughing with me said she wanted another 20,000. At this point I snatched the 50,000 note back out of her hand and gave her the carrier bag of food back and turned to walk away, so she backed down, snatched the 50,000 note back out my hand and said it was OK. TBH, 50,000 was too much, but just like in The Philippines western tourists have to get used to being ripped off by the locals.
As we drew nearer to Da Nang the skies darkened and eventually it started raining. On arrival at Da Nang it was torrential. The temperature had also dropped from a pleasantly tropical 33c in Saigon to around 15c.
Our final destination for the day was Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An which is about 30km south of Da Nang. The standard taxi fare for westerners to Hoi An was 400,000 Dong (£13). On leaving Da Nang I was impressed by how modern the city is, it’s a huge manufacturing and business centre with lots of modern business parks, retail and entertainment parks. The roads are all brand new dual carriageways with hardly any traffic. The journey only took about 30 minutes along the dead straight, brand new 4 lane coastal highway.
When we arrived at our hotel, it became very clear that this was low season. Cua Dai beach was closed for the winter, the hotel was empty. It would have been a great place in warmer weather, it was right on the beach, was nicely appointed and the staff were friendly. We had booked for 2 nights, but we decided to abandon the hotel after 1 night and find somewhere in Hoi An town itself as a beach was the last place we wanted to be in the cold wind and rain.
The following day we found a lovely hotel in Hoi An, The Thanh Van. It was too cheap to be true, 25 USD a night for a really nice and large double room.

Hoi An itself is a fairly small town, but as you venture in to the ancient part of town, you can feel yourself being taken back 300 years. The Vietnamese have done a fantastic job preserving the ancient houses, even if most of them have been converted into trendy art shops, cafe’s, bars and general souvenir shops. However, none of this takes anything away from the beauty of the town. I’d read a lot about Hoi An, seen dozens of photo’s and was expecting it to be pretty, but I really couldn’t have imagined just how beautiful the town was. I fell in love with it immediately, it is a stunning place by day, but at night when the famous lanterns are lit it is quite simply magical.
You can see everything in Hoi An in one day and night, as we had 2 days in Hoi An, we booked a coach tour to the Cham Temple ruins at My Son for our last day. My Son is Vietnam’s own Angkor Wat (Siem Reap) although on a slightly smaller scale than their Cambodian neighbours. The temples had been abandoned about 300 years ago, and were rediscovered and restored by the French about 100 years ago. Unfortunately the largest and most impressive temple was completely destroyed by a B-52 bombing raid in 1969. Around a third of the temples were destroyed during the war with the US.
That evening we had to head back to Da Nang Station to catch the 10.00 PM sleeper train to Nha Trang.....
more to follow

Doc Alan
16th January 2012, 23:24
Thanks for another fascinating - and educational - read, Ian :xxgrinning--00xx3:

Rosie1958
16th January 2012, 23:41
Another great and very enjoyable read Ian, thank you so much for your latest effort. I was amazed to learn that the temperature dropped to 15C in Da Nang, not something I was expecting. Hoi Ann sounds like a wonderful place, not to be missed! :xxgrinning--00xx3:

Just wondering whether eating that bucket of raw frogs in your video that had anything to do with your Saigon Belly?!! :huepfen024::repuke:

grahamw48
17th January 2012, 01:11
You should be getting paid for this travelogue Ian.....excellent. :xxgrinning--00xx3:

Englishman2010
17th January 2012, 07:17
Thanks Alan, Rosie and Graham:xxgrinning--00xx3:

No I didn't eat the frogs raw:icon_lol: That was a picture from the meat section on the Thai Binh market in Pham Ngu Lau, Saigon. Deep fried and crispy battered frogs were delicious, just like Kentucky Fried Frog:xxgrinning--00xx3:

Although the temperature ranged between 28 - 33c all year in Saigon and the south, the further north you go it cools down rapidly in the winter. I met some people who'd been to Hanoi / Halong Bay and said it was about 6c there:omg: The vietnamese coast is approx 3000km long and has different seasons. The warmest time to visit the north is supposed to be April - October.

Nha Trang was a bit warmer, around 20c, but there was a fierce wind blowing in from the South China Sea. The beautiful turquoise seas in Nha Trang Bay which I'd seen on photo's turned out to be a churning murky brown sea with a 6 foot swell and breakers surfers would enjoy. The beach was empty as the current was so fierce it wasn't safe to venture in to the sea. The best time to visit Nha Trang is Apr - Oct. I'll say more about Nha Trang and the 71 islands in my next installment

Terpe
17th January 2012, 08:54
Good read Ian. Very interesting.

Wonder if you travelled on any of the trains I worked on

Englishman2010
17th January 2012, 09:08
Good read Ian. Very interesting.

Wonder if you travelled on any of the trains I worked on

Thanks Terpe:xxgrinning--00xx3:

We went on the SE2 from Saigon to Da Nang, SE7 from Da Nang to Nha Trang and the SNQ1 from Nha Trang to Saigon, if that's any help to you:Erm:

mickcant
17th January 2012, 09:45
Thanks again:xxgrinning--00xx3:
will look out for your next installment:ReadIt:
Mick.:)

Terpe
17th January 2012, 13:57
Thanks Terpe:xxgrinning--00xx3:

We went on the SE2 from Saigon to Da Nang, SE7 from Da Nang to Nha Trang and the SNQ1 from Nha Trang to Saigon, if that's any help to you:Erm:

At the risk of sounding slightly 'geeky', SE2 and SE7 designate "trainset types"- with the SE prefix indicating top quality trainsets.

The odd numbers run in one direction and the even numbers run in the other. So SE2 runs from Saigon to Hanoi and SE7 runs from Hanoi to Saigon.

There's a heck of a lot of different types of rolling stock in Vietnam, and I worked on both locomotives and coaches during one of the major refurbishments.

Most of the locomotives I worked with were either their Romanian built diesel hydraulic units (D11H), or their Czech built diesel electric. (D12E)

As I recall, nearly all the coaches were quite old and originally from China, but looked OK once fixed-up and repainted.
I won't go into the designations and numbering of the coach types. That really would be too geeky. :rolleyes:

Englishman2010
17th January 2012, 14:15
The coaches were quite dated and had seen better days, but they were OK for 1 night, I'm not complaining. However, with limited washing facilities, a fairly stinky toilet and the lack of a shower I wouldn't want to make the Saigon to Hanoi journey without a 1 night break in a hotel in somewhere like Da Nang or Hue.

I'm currently in the process of arranging tickets for 3 trains on the Singapore to Bangkok line, the tickets look a bit cheaper there. I wouldn't say that Vietnamese trains were particularly cheap in comparison. The tickets for the 3 journeys were £30, £20 and £15 per person per trip ....but then they did save a night hotel costs on 3 days:)

The trains were a great experience, and one that I'm pleased I didn't miss. It would have been an easy option to jump on a plane, but not the same experience:xxgrinning--00xx3: Having said that, if I go back and get up to Hue and Halong Bay, I'll probably fly, purely to save time.

grahamw48
17th January 2012, 14:24
Did either yourself or Terpe ever get to ride the old Manila - Naga - Legaspi sleeper Ian ?

I have done that trip a few (nightmarish) times.

Terpe
17th January 2012, 14:46
Did either yourself or Terpe ever get to ride the old Manila - Naga - Legaspi sleeper Ian ?

I have done that trip a few (nightmarish) times.

During my days as a 'Railway Engineer' I never actually stayed or worked in Philippines for more than a couple of days.
My company did get a chance to participate in some LRT contracts, but it didn't happen.

Been going there for nearly 20 years but never once took a train.

Had my fair share of 'nightmare' train journeys though. :cwm3:

Englishman2010
17th January 2012, 15:08
Did either yourself or Terpe ever get to ride the old Manila - Naga - Legaspi sleeper Ian ?

I have done that trip a few (nightmarish) times.

I did consider it when I went to Naga and Legaspi last year, but I managed to get a couple of flights for about £15 so it hardly seemed worth it.

Train journeys can be slow and uncomfortable, I've had a few nightmares too...but, there's something I love about trains, you don't get the same experience from flying or going on a coach:xxgrinning--00xx3:

Only 9 weeks until I go from Singapore to KL to Butterworth and on to Bangkok...I can't wait:D

worthingmale
17th January 2012, 15:25
ah rats, I forgot to tell you about MHC guesthouse when I stayed there sorry

Englishman2010
17th January 2012, 16:07
ah rats, I forgot to tell you about MHC guesthouse when I stayed there sorry

That's OK, what was it like? I'll be there for a few nights at the end of March

You can PM me or message me on FB if you want to keep it private;)

worthingmale
17th January 2012, 16:27
I will be staying there again, a fun and interesting place.

Will send you a PM

Englishman2010
17th January 2012, 16:38
I will be staying there again, a fun and interesting place.

Will send you a PM

That's good to hear, many thanks:xxgrinning--00xx3:

Max, the owner certainly seems a character from the e-mail conversations we've had:xxgrinning--00xx3:

Will look fwd to your report:)

stevie c
17th January 2012, 17:12
Welcome back what a fantastic read of your very exciting trip.


You sure have got me & florsel wanting to visit vietnam sooner rather than later. :xxgrinning--00xx3:

Many thanks for the fantastic read :)

Englishman2010
17th January 2012, 17:24
Welcome back what a fantastic read of your very exciting trip.


You sure have got me & florsel wanting to visit vietnam sooner rather than later. :xxgrinning--00xx3:

Many thanks for the fantastic read :)

My pleasure Stevie, I'm pleased someone appreciates it:)

I didn't know what to expect until I got there, but I was pleasantly surprised. In some ways it's similar to the rest of SEA and the Phil's and in other ways it's different. the only real drawback I found was that the level of English spoken even in hotels and major tourist areas was very poor, they are certainly not as fluent as Filipino's. However, that never stopped me from getting what I wanted or making myself understood by use of hand gestures/diagrams...etc

stevie c
17th January 2012, 17:34
Yes thanks Ian it was very much appreciated.

I have a Friend who has visited vietnam & then went on to visit china like you he was not sure what to expect at first but he said both countries are a must visit.

Englishman2010
17th January 2012, 17:40
The country was far more advanced than I was expecting and there is a much better tourism infrastructure than the Phil's. I've spoken to a lot of people who say it's somewhere they want to go in the near future. I think the whole Indochina area will become very big in the next decade

stevie c
17th January 2012, 17:45
I could not agree more Ian i also expect indochina to become very big in the near future it seems to be very popular already.

Englishman2010
17th January 2012, 18:55
Vietnam Airlines have just launched a direct non stop flight from Gatwick to Hanoi 3 times a week and Gatwick to Ho Chi Minh 3 times a week, prices start at £439 return:xxgrinning--00xx3:

However, they may need to modernise their fleet, as I flew back to Paris with them on an AirFrance codeshare. The aircraft was very old and in need of a serious upgrade.